Cruelty-Free Beauty Revolution: How the Industry Transformed for the Ethical Consumer

Last updated on:
July 21, 2023
Written by:
Unnati Mavchi
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The legacy of animal testing in beauty

For countless years, animals have been subjects of experimentation for drugs and cosmetic products. Back in 1938, the United States Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act rolled out the red carpet for animal testing to ensure our creams and potions were top-notch. For decades, animals such as rabbits, mice, and guinea pigs were subjected to painful tests to assess the safety of cosmetic products. These tests often involved injecting chemicals into the animals' eyes or skin, causing unnecessary suffering. 

Initially, the practice of testing beauty products on animals before deeming them safe for human use emerged as a safety precaution. However, mounting concerns regarding cruelty towards animals prompted a critical examination of the balance between human vanity and the welfare of animals.

Fortunately, in today's beauty industry, there is a growing demand for cruelty-free products that align with ethical values and thanks to scientific advancements, this demand is now being met more than ever before. 

An ethical and cruelty-free shift in skincare

Moving ahead to a time characterized by compassion and heightened initiatives from animal lovers, environmentalists, activists, and various others, the skincare industry has begun experiencing a transition towards cruelty-free beauty products.

Although cruelty-free may sound rad, there's a tiny hitch. Due to the absence of a well-defined, law-abiding definition, there's a common misconception that cruelty-free equates to vegan. But, that's not the case.

As a standard practice, products earn the label of "cruelty-free" only if they haven't undergone animal testing at any stage of development or production. This designation is specifically related to post-formulation practices and does not encompass animal-derived ingredients or their individual testing on animals.

Response of corporates to cruelty-free practices

An increasing number of companies have risen up to the responsibility of adopting policies that minimize harm to animals during the development of personal care products. While some companies are implementing stricter measures in the manufacturing process, others are opting to completely eliminate animal testing.

However, they still need to make sure that their lipstick does not burn a hole into our lips. Therefore, despite the changes, these companies have to remain committed towards upholding the highest safety standards for their products. Consequently, the necessity of devising alternatives to animal testing has become more apparent.

Scientific advancements play a crucial role in the beauty industry, particularly when it comes to cruelty-free practices. With the advancement of technology, scientists have developed several alternatives to traditional animal testing methods. 

Let’s take a closer look at some of these animal-testing alternatives that have recently made their way into the spotlight:

In-vitro testing

This involves using human cells or tissues to simulate the effects of a product. In-vitro refers to experiments conducted outside a living system (or human body) under laboratory conditions. In this method, human cell cultures are employed to construct tissue models on which products can undergo testing. To put it simply, rather than applying chemicals on animal skin, scientists are opting for a cooler route and testing them on a trendy culture of epidermal cells.

In addition to tissue models, researchers have aced another technique wherein they have developed something known as “organs-on-chips”. These chips have human cells grown on them in a way that totally mimics the structure and functions of human organs. These can be reliably used for testing the impact of drugs and doing toxicity screens without involving live animals.

3D Modelling

PETA has been recognized for providing funding for a project that contributed to the development of a 3D model of a human lung, known as EpiAlveolar. This innovative model serves as a valuable tool for testing the impact of inhaling chemicals on the lungs, a process traditionally conducted on animals.

Additionally, a parallel 3D model of human skin, named EpiDerm, has been introduced to substitute the prolonged and painful testing on rabbits for assessing the irritant or corrosive potential of chemicals.

Noteworthy initiatives from companies like AlveoliX and MIMETAS reflect a trend where animal testing is progressively being replaced by these advanced models.

Human-patient simulators

A more precise representation of the human system comes in the form of computerised human-patient simulators. These sophisticated devices are remarkably lifelike, capable of breathing, convulsing, and even simulating death, all while effectively mimicking various injuries and illnesses. As a result, they are swiftly taking the place of animal laboratories in the field of medical science, offering a more humane and accurate method for instructing students on human physiology.

One such frequently used system is TraumaMan, which is a replica of a bleeding human torso exhibiting close-to-real layers of skin followed by ribs and internal organs. Such systems can completely do away with the need of dissecting animal models in laboratories to demonstrate anatomy and physiology.

Computer modelling (In silico)

In addition to the human-patient simulators, computer models that simulate human biology and predict the interaction of various drugs with the human body have also been developed. These systems use the existing data on drugs with similar structures to predict the likelihood of the candidate molecule being hazardous.

A specific term, Quantitative Structure-Activity Relationships (QSARs), has been coined to describe such techniques. The adoption of these methods by numerous companies is on the rise, and it is anticipated that their utilization will play a pivotal role in phasing out animal testing.

Artificial intelligence

Artificial intelligence (AI) has also played a significant role in advancing cruelty-free beauty research. AI algorithms can analyze vast amounts of data and identify patterns that humans may overlook. This technology has been applied to predict the safety of cosmetic ingredients, detect potential allergens, and optimize formulations without the need for animal testing.

By leveraging AI, researchers can streamline the development process, saving time and resources while ensuring the safety and efficacy of beauty products. This not only benefits animals but also allows for faster innovation and the creation of more personalized beauty solutions.

Human research volunteers

Following the clearance of safety standards through in-vitro testing, a drug needs to undergo additional scrutiny for its safety and metabolism within the human body before advancing to large-scale human trials.

To achieve this, scientists employ a technique called "microdosing," wherein a minute, a one-time dose is administered to human volunteers. Subsequently, the interactions of the drug within the body are examined using various sophisticated imaging techniques.

Now, you might be questioning the ethical rationale behind testing a drug on humans when the goal is to reduce testing on living models altogether. The answer to this query hinges on examining two key factors.

Firstly, to address ethical concerns, the initial dose administered to the volunteer is minuscule, and its magnitude is determined following toxicity tests involving various concentrations in in-vitro testing. It's only when the dose is deemed safe and has successfully surpassed all in-vitro testing stages that it becomes eligible for live organism testing. Hence, there's an assumption that it won't adversely impact the health of the volunteer.

The second significant factor at play is the concept of "CONSENT" — a critical element that, unfortunately, cannot be achieved in the realm of animal testing. In human trials, the willing participation and informed agreement of the volunteers are integral, ensuring a level of ethical consideration that is inherently absent in traditional animal testing practices.

While these alternative methods are gaining traction among beauty product manufacturers, they have not yet reached a stage where they can fully replace the traditional, long standing practice of animal testing. Numerous companies have taken commendable steps by revising their policies to minimize harm during production, implementing complete bans on animal testing, and even going the extra mile to produce exclusively vegan products.

However, the landscape of scientific techniques continues to evolve, with advancements emerging regularly. The collective hope is that, in the future, the cruelty-free label will become a standard across most companies in the market and with continued innovation, the beauty industry may well embark on a cruelty-free future.